Back in the 2000s, Younghwan Kim, the owner of the barbecue restaurant Hahm Ji Bach, put Queens’s Koreatown on the map for thick, sizzling slabs of samgyupsal (pork belly) grilled at the table ...

Queens’s Koreatown, run by and for the local residential community since its development in the 1970s, continues to stand as a bastion of Korean tradition despite a shrinking Korean population.