A new restaurant and brewery on Long Island is already charming diners. The Stone Goat – located in St. James at 552 North Country Road – held its soft opening on Wednesday, Nov. 20.

Donkey & Goat’s 2011 “Stone Crusher” is the rare Roussanne let off the leash. The wine attacks with a rush of acidity but pulls back with a chewy, nectariney finish. How do winemakers Tracey ...